![]() It also will help people to buy shims, since they will know what sort of change to make each time they dismantle the clutch shaft to reduce clutch slack. However I think it would be useful to members to have a fairly specific idea of what clearance that turns out to be, just in case the clutch plates have a slight friction sliding across the square shaft in the center of the clutch, which might make it difficult to set up just by clutch drag alone. Can you check the clutch clearances please, with feeler gauges? I understand that is not the way you set it up, and what you ended up doing is very similar to a previous report by a member who just set the minimum clearance that allowed the clutches to rotate without drag. I need to slip the new motor in before I can test the unit out. I chose to do this with two 0.25mm spacers per side for easier adjustment down the track as it wears.Įverything else looks to be good as I spent a bit of time replacing bits 18 months ago. With new cork liners I had to fit 0.5mm of spacers to both sides. I had pretty good pedal travel on the old plates as I shimmed them up about a year ago. Otherwise there will be too much pedal movement. All this has to be accomplished with the least amount of play for the sliding clutch assembly. I have managed to pretty much get that spot on. ![]() Do the same thing on the opposing drive plate. I spoke to a guru who has done this quite a few times and his recommendations were when pressure is applied to the clutch plates shifting the whole assembly against one drive plate, the opposing drive plate should spin almost freely with minimal contact against it's mating clutch. I have managed to pick up some genuine shims and reassembled the clutch drive. If that's the case I will add the detail here. I might have to play with shims upon axle reassembly due to the thicker pad material. Hopefully I will have a nice responsive reverse pedal which is what I was lacking. Coated both sides till touch dry then applied both surfaces together and slight pressure and I left them for a few days. I used a fast dry contact cement which I applied with a cheapie narrow paint brush. I usually try and limit damage to anything I play with. The scratches on one of the plates is from a prior attempt by someone. The rest of the removal was a slow process involving removing a bit and then resoaking etc etc,Īfter a while I came up with the finished product The fuel did a great job at softening the contact cement. Once I removed most of the cork bulk I put a few mm of fuel in on old baking tray and plonked the plate in to soak for a few minutes. I used one of my old fish filleting knives and cut around the lining in such a fashion. I'm sure smarter folk out there have better methods but without getting too heavy handed I came up with this idea. The hardest part was removing the old lining. Last week I had a few spare hours so I decided to finally replace the cork liners on the clutch plates for my Tractor 11.
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